Cherries

The arrival of local cherries in the markets means two things: summer and Christmas. Unfortunately, the cherry season only lasts 100 days, so it is a matter of enjoying this seasonal fruit whilst you can. Cherries are available from November to February, with different varieties harvested at different times. The flavours range from mild to rich and sweet, and some are slightly tart or sour.

As well as being delicious, cherries are a great source of vitamin C and antioxidants and have a low GI.

When shopping for cherries, look for green stalks and shiny bright skins. The flesh should be plump and taut. The skin becomes dull when it is overripe. Avoid cherries that are soft and bruised or small and hard. Once picked, cherries will not ripen further, so are best consumed within 4 days of purchase. They last longer with the stem attached. Store cherries, unwashed and loosely packed, in an airtight container or plastic bag in the fridge. Only wash cherries just before eating as this can make them soft. Cherries can be frozen too. Wash first, then dry and store in an airtight container in the freezer for up to 6 months.

Cherries are crisp and refreshing served simply in a bowl of crushed ice. Or piled high, as an impressive centrepiece to your Christmas table. They are equally brilliant when cooked and work well with flavours like cinnamon, chocolate, coconut and almonds. Try pickling cherries for a taste sensation. Or start the day with my bircher muesli. For a fast and easy dessert, whip up my cherry sorbet.

Cherries are inextricably linked to our memories of carefree days of summer holidays. As Nigel Slater puts it “A bag of cherries is a bag of happiness”.

Seared carpaccio of beef with remoulade and pickled cherries

This is a perfect  dish for summer entertaining. Make a large platter and serve it in the middle of the table. The beef is served delicately raw on the inside, with a seared crust. If you prefer to cook the meat through, place in a 200C preheated oven for around 20 minutes. Allow it to rest for at least 15 minutes before carving.

Pickled Cherries

425ml white wine vinegar

12 pepper corns

12 allspice berries      

350g sugar

3 bay leaves

500g fresh cherries

celeriac remoulade

1 small celeriac, peeled

sea salt to season

juice of ½ lemon

5 tbsp good quality mayonnaise

½ cup chopped parsley

carpaccio

2 tbsp black peppercorns

2 tbsp coriander seeds

2 tbsp salt

1.5 kg fillet of beef

2 tbsp horseradish cream

200ml crème fraiche

juice 1 lemon

handful picked watercress

100g shaved parmesan

To make the pickled cherries, bring the wine vinegar, peppercorns, allspice, sugar and bay leaves to a simmer in a small pot. Leave to cool for 5 minutes before pouring over the cherries. Pickle for a day before placing in the fridge where they will keep indefinitely. Serve at room temperature.

For the remoulade, thinly slice the celeriac, preferably on a mandolin. Then, julienne finely into thin strips. Place in a bowl, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and allow to sit for a few minutes. Mix mayonnaise, lemon juice and parsley together, add celeriac and mix thoroughly. Set aside.

For the beef, place peppercorns, coriander seeds and salt in a mortar and pound with a pestle until coarsely ground. Rub all over the beef fillet, pressing in well.

Heat a grill pan or large frypan until very hot and sear the meat for around 5 minutes until brown and crispy on all sides. Remove from pan and rest for 10 minutes, then slice thinly and arrange on a platter.

Mix horseradish cream with crème fraiche and thin out with a little lemon juice to make a pouring consistency.

Drizzle over platter of beef slices, garnish with watercress and shaved parmesan. Serve with remoulade and pickled cherries.

Serves 6.